Words by AFP Relaxnews
Resort collections naturally bring to mind dreams of travel and wanderlust, and for this year's shows and presentations many of the designers have clearly been feeling the call of the East
Hot on the heels of this spring's Metropolitan Museum annual Costume Institute Gala where the designated theme was "China: Through the Looking Glass", oriental influences and embellishments coursed through the 2016 resort collections.
First up was Chanel, where Karl Lagerfeld plumbed the K-pop cultural phenomenon currently sweeping the West to dream up a kaleidoscopic vision of color and pattern based on a very modern Korea. The result was fun and frivolous, comprising cute summer dresses, skirts and tops in bold geometric striped prints, as well as the house's traditional tweeds, which were given a makeover with pastel greens, candy pinks and rich purples.
However, there was evidence of Korean traditions in the Hanbok-inspired shapes, such as long flounced sleeves and empire waistlines. Presenting his collection in Seoul in early May, the designer said the collection was the result of a long-term fascination with the destination, explaining: "I love the proportions of the dresses, and even the fibres."
Meanwhile Roberto Cavalli chose to look to Japan for his Just Cavalli Resort Collection 2016, splashing kimono prints across trousers, frilled blouses, loose maxi skirts and A-line baby doll dresses. The colors were far from muted, ranging from emerald greens to deep burgundies, and the pieces were meshed with suede fringed skirts and studded jackets in a literal representation of "East meets (wild) West".
China is the country currently holding the key to Donna Karan's heart, as illustrated by her collection of Eastern-inspired pared-down tailored pieces presented earlier this week. The predominantly monochromatic collection was a chic and modern take on fusion fashion, teaming high round collars, kimono jackets and beautifully draped silks with asymmetric zips, spaghetti straps and feather embellishments for the perfect cultural balance.
In addition to these three collections, Asian-inspired riffs were picked up by other designers, such as the abstract kimono prints and three-quarter length at Diesel Black Gold last week and the silk-printed orchid designs added to contemporary jumpsuits and mini dresses at Diane von Furstenberg this week.
Copyright AFP Relaxnews, 2015.
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