Secrets of Puglia

Ahh Puglia! A recipe of sunshine, tangy olives, creamy burrata and a swirl of tales itching to be told. Our 9-day journey begins in Naples where every street is filled with a vibrancy that’ll pour into your soul. Here, we’ll meet a group of people who’ll not only share this journey with us, but will each wander a unique path of their own. After settling in, we’ll have the opportunity to get to know one another over a delicious welcome meal. Which Naples staple will be on the menu this evening?!

It’s the first full day of our calm adventure. Tuck into a bite of cornetto (Italian croissant) with your cappuccino before we take to the road, driving eastwards to our first port of call: Bari. Breathe in the scent of fresh Adriatic water as it follows you on a brief stroll around the city with a local guide. Seek sights such as ladies making pasta by hand along narrow streets and a white-washed cathedral that stands tall in the city’s heart. Following the tour, we’ll head to a family-owned hotel in the Polignano a Mare region where you can spend the evening relaxing besides the pool or on top of crisp, white sheets.

Buongiorno! It’s another beautiful day on this expertly crafted tour of Puglia. Today’s first stop, Andria – home to a 13th-century citadel and castle, Castel del Monte aka ‘Castle of the Mountain’.  

Here, we’ll discover the devoted history of dairy produce in the area during an artisan mozzarella tasting experience with local husband and wife, Mr and Mrs Olanda. Upon our arrival, we’ll view the old cheesemaking instruments – imagining the craftmanship and dedication of those who used these tools in the past. Then, we’ll continue to the showing room where a casaro (cheesemaker) will provide a demonstration of mozzarella making. Are you ready for the best part? The tasting! Compare a selection of soft cheeses such as burrata di Andria, fior di latte and bocconcini scamorza Affumicati. What's a cheese tasting without a tipple of wine – we are in Italy after all! Sip on local flavours that accompany this natural cuisine to perfection.  

Stomachs satiated, we’ll return to the comforts of our hotel on the outskirts of Polignano. If you’re not too full from today’s tasting, try some local seafood – octopus or salmon – or traditional mushroom ravioli at one of the vibrant restaurants. Then... relax. This is a journey that slows the pace.  

Say ciao to Polignano a Mare as the next part of our journey calls to our spirit. The first stop of the day certainly doesn’t disappoint! Grotte di Castellana is an expansive underground cave system. At every twist and turn, you’ll see a cluster of sparkling stalactites or glimmering stalagmites, each one as unique as its neighbour. Explore at your own pace and witness legendary shapes such as The She Wolf of Rome, The Ballerina’s Leg and The Owl – named by past explorers whose now-invisible footsteps trace every crevice.  

Puglia’s enchanting embrace doesn’t stop there for the day. Onwards to Alberobello – a UNESCO World Heritage site that will stay in your mind’s eye far longer than the afternoon we’ll spend here. The trulli looks like the homes of gnomes in a tale that begins once-upon-a-time rather than homes of peasants from long ago. With a local guide, you’ll saunter along the cobblestone roads seeking the town’s slumbering secrets and visit its church, homes and shops along the way. 

Ready to step back in time to a 16th-century palace? You’re in luck with tonight’s hotel at Lecce! Nestled in a narrow street you could easily get lost in, our family-owned accommodation is filled with a regalia that’ll straighten your spine and tilt your chin – as though an invisible crown has been place upon your brow. Be swept off your feet on a large bed, get lost among the uniquely decorated rooms, or escape beyond the palace walls with a wander through the old town close by.

Fully rested like a royal, it’s time to enjoy a full day in Lecce! Grab an espresso to wake all your senses in preparation for our walking tour this morning. We’ll wander past Lecce Cathedral, dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. Whether you’re religious or not, you’ll feel its staggering presence. Another unmissable monument is Basilica di Santa Croce. Trace your eyes across gargoyles with gruesome faces and stone statues which stand proud as you learn of its sacred symbolism.  

The rest of the day is at your leisure! Where to begin? Perhaps a bite to eat to satisfy your hunger – it's been a couple of hours since breakfast, after all! Local delicacies are dotted around Lecce, so there won’t be far to wander until you find delicious cuisine. How about rustico leccase? This small pastry bite, accompanied by a glass of negrocamaro Puglian wine is sure to go down a treat!  

After an afternoon of schmoozing the streets as the sun warms your skin, revel in more Italian food – in our book, you can never have enough! A unique (and surprising) plate if you want to dabble in extreme tastes: carne di cavallo aka horse meat. It’s a typical dish in this part of the world and deserves a try! When in Rome – or Lecce, in our case.

The beautiful thing (well – one of them!) about experiencing this part of Italy is that you’ll discover ancient Greek heritage, too. Our first taste is in the town of Manduria where the King of Sparta died during battle in 338 BC. Its cream-coloured architecture against the backdrop of bright blue skies are enough to take your breath away, but as we stroll through its heart, we can almost hear echoes of striking swords, warrior grunts and the yell of victories past.  

What better way to experience this realm than a tasting of the area’s famous Primitivo wine? A blend of intense flavours and indigenous grapes will awaken your senses in a tale of tradition, technique and taste. First, we’ll wander through a special museum where feasts and music come alive with every step. Then, the fun part! Sip an array of flavours whilst picking at a board of local treats: cheese, salame, cranu stumpatu (a local farmer dish of grain, extra virgin olive oil and onions) and more.  

Minds full and horizons widened, we’ll move on to Martina Franca – a town nestled in the Itria Valley filled with dramatic architecture. Stop for lunch, or gelato, and savour every moment this path takes you. Later, we’ll head to our hotel where dinner awaits! Taste seasonal food, clink glasses and share your favourite moments of the journey so far.

Who wants to test their cooking skills? You’re in luck! Today we’ll be making homemade pasta – from scratch! There’s no better place on earth to learn the intricacies of this dish. Our backdrop is Otsuni, also known as La Città Bianca aka the ‘White Town’ with its stronghold of white-washed buildings standing proud atop a hill – like the ancient gods of Mount Olympus. And our cooking location? A traditional farmhouse... Hundreds of voices have echoed through these rooms, but today it’s our local cook we’ll listen to as they guide us through creating our own lunch!  

After our meal, we’ll have some free time to wander through the city. The breeze may whip off our sunhats, but that won’t stop us from discovering something new at every turn. Overhear animated conversations in the middle of Piazza della Libertá. Take a calming breath in the presence of Otsuni Cathedral. Or escape to the beach a short 15-minute drive away. Our day will end back in Itria Valley – buona notte!

It’s our last full day together, so let’s cheers our cappuccinos in gratitude that we’re living in the moment. Next on our agenda, the jewel of the Basilicata region today, Matera. Tumbled together in a maze of mismatched buildings, ancient stones and crumbling homes, this city built of cave dwellings swirls with tales of life since Neolithic and Paleolithic times. We'll meet a local guide who’ll usher us along narrow paths to sites such as Piazza Vittorio Veneto and Casa Grotta, revealing secrets every step of the way. 

Later, we’ll bunk down in a cave – our unique accommodation for the night. Each room in tonight’s family-owned hotel is different. Before you settle in to dream of a time from the past, we’ll gather for our final group dinner at a nearby restaurant – perhaps rionero ventresca (wild boar sausage) or strazzata (local focaccia) will be on the menu!

Savour every morsel of breakfast this morning – it may be your last in Italy for a short while! Then, we’ll delve underground at the Palombaro Grande Matera: a 16th-century cistern that once collected millions of litres of rain and natural spring water. After marvelling this feat of medieval engineering, we’ll venture onwards in the minicoach to Altamura where a mouth-watering local treat awaits... 

Altamura’s famed durum wheat bread, pane di altamura, was first baked in 1423 – and we’ll get to taste a platter of focaccia, bread and bruschetta, lovingly created by local bakers. Prepare your senses for another Italian treat!  

For the road back to Naples, we suggest picking up a box of mostaccioli or marzapani to share between you all. What a pleasure – and a journey – this has been!